I’m working on some rings for my personal jewelry stash this week that requires me to do a bit of experimenting. The project is a group of miniature food rings, some of which must be made out of resin, because they are bottles with a high degree of translucency.
My plan was to sculpt the bottles first out of polymer clay, and then use the clay bottles to cast silicone molds. And then, the molds would be used to cast the final resin bottles.
Bottles are more difficult for me to sculpt because of their symmetry, something that does not often come into play with more free-form foods, and there was an added challenge of needing to add texture to some of the bottle surfaces. For example, here’s the real version of one of the pieces I’m attempting to miniaturize; you can see the raised texture on the upper portion of the bottle.
In order to create the pyramid shapes, I ended up pressing a square bead corner into a piece of clay. This piece was baked, and then I was able to use the baked clay to create sections of raw clay with the necessary pattern.
These were assembled along the neck of the bottle. Then, I wrapped another piece of clay along the top of the bottle, and I used a ball-ended tool to create round depressions on the surface. Finally, I wrapped a sheet of clay around the bottom half of the bottle to make the entire bottle surface level.
This bottle, along with others that I sculpted in different shapes, were baked, and then I pressed each of them into a pad of “junk” clay at the bottom of plastic cups to prepare for pouring the mold-making material. The junk clay prevented the liquid rubber from seeping underneath the bottles, effectively encasing them in the mold, which was not what I wanted.
The two-part mold material was mixed together and then poured into the plastic cups (more on the mold material at the end of this post), and I left them to cure overnight. When I popped the molds out of the cups this morning, everything looked good! Now it’s just a matter of waiting to see whether the resin I’ve poured into the molds will look the way I’m hoping once it’s cured tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
Normally, when I’m making molds to sell in my shop, I use a silicone mold putty that I mix by hand. It’s super strong, but it’s also pretty darn expensive, so I knew that I couldn’t use it for these much larger molds or they’d cost a fortune.
I tried a new product by a company called Smooth-On, and while I’m super happy with the level of detail that can be captured with this material, it’s not terribly strong, and it’s possible to tear some of the thinner pieces off–definitely not something I want to use for pieces I’m selling. However, it’s less expensive and it worked quite well for this project, so I’m hoping the results I get tomorrow, once I pop out the resin pieces, are satisfactory. I’ll keep you posted with more pics later this week!
P.S. If you want an update once my next post is available, hop on my mailing list and tick the box next to blog updates when you sign up. Bonus: You’ll also get a bunch of free miniature food tutorials. 🙂
March 26, 2014 at 9:39 pm
I’m super impressed! I always wondered how you made your molds and this just blew my mind. 🙂 It’s not just the detail but the problem-solving that goes into figuring out essentially how to turn a 3D object inside-out and then back. 🙂
March 26, 2014 at 9:49 pm
Thanks, Lisa! Some molds are pretty straightforward, but yes, ones like this bottle mold will definitely have me scratching my head at my work table for awhile. 😉
March 27, 2014 at 9:26 pm
[…] morning, I checked the results of the resin I poured yesterday, and sadly, I was disappointed in what I found. A few of the pieces were tacky to the touch, which […]
March 28, 2014 at 11:54 pm
I was wondering… is there a particular reason why you made half-molds from your originals? To make my bottle molds I simply glue the original upward on the bottom of the paper cup (actually I use some disposable cardboard boxes I make on purpose) and pour the mold material around the whole bottle. It’s true the top is always narrower than the rest but the resulting mold is quite flexible and “gives” enough to let the item out. This way I don’t have to glue together two half bottles (which I know I would never be able to do neatly 😉 and I cut the working time in half.
apart from this, I love your patterned bottles! So clever!
March 29, 2014 at 12:00 am
That’s an awesome technique, Marcella! Thanks for sharing it. 🙂 For this project I’m actually making rings, so I need flat backs, hence the half molds. I also only sculpted details on one side of the original to save time, since I knew I wouldn’t be using the back for anything.
March 29, 2014 at 12:04 am
oh yes of course – rings. You even mentioned it in your post – and actually I was trying to picture a ring with a bottle sticking out 😉 Obviously you made flat back molds – next time I’ll read twice before commenting. [runs away red faced 🙂 ]
March 29, 2014 at 12:06 am
Not at all! 😉 I’m glad you commented, because I will have a need to make 3D bottles in the future, and I wasn’t looking forward to coming up with my own technique for that, so you’ve totally saved me the trouble. 🙂
March 29, 2014 at 12:13 am
Mo, I’ve been reading your blog for quite a while (not to mention your DIY MBA book and your tutorials) and I must tell you I absolutely love the way you relate to your readers. You’re genuinely nice and helpful and your kindness always manages to show through. It’s… refreshing at the very least. Thank you 🙂
March 29, 2014 at 1:19 am
Wow, thank you so much, Marcella. 🙂 *blush* I really appreciate you saying that. I’ve been able to meet so many amazing people online through my businesses, and I’m super grateful. It’s such a nice antidote to some of the online communities put there that seem to take Internet anonymity as a free pass to act like total turds. 😉
April 1, 2014 at 7:22 pm
[…] look good! (Just joining us? You can see my earlier attempts, including a few duds in this post and this […]